La Rioja is Spain's most famous wine region—D.O.C. status since 1925 (Denominación de Origen Calificada—the highest). 600 cellars, 65,000 hectares of vineyards. WHAT TO TRY • Joven—young, fruity, max. 1 year old • Crianza—min. 2 years old (1 in oak) • Reserva—min. 3 years old (1 in oak) • Gran Reserva—min. 5 years old (2 in oak)—the best quality VARIETIES Tempranillo (main, 75% of the crop), Garnacha, Mazuelo, Graciano. White—Viura. 5 DAYS ON THE TRAIL DAY 1: LOGROÑO—the capital, Kalle Laurel (40 tapas bars in one street!), visit to Bodegas Marques de Murrieta. DAY 2: HARO — Barrio de la Estación, 7 historic bodegas at 500 meters: López de Heredia (1877), Bodegas Bilbaínas, CVNE, Muga. Each includes a tour and tasting. DAY 3: LAGUARDIA — Medieval town of Rioja Alavesa, underground cellars beneath the streets, Bodegas Marqués de Riscal (architecture by Frank Gehry). DAY 4: SAN VICENTE de la SONSIERRA + BRIONES — Vivanco Museum (the best wine museum in Europe), Bodegas Dinastía Vivanco. DAY 5: BACK TO LOGROÑO — The Camino de Santiago passes through Logroño, a perfect culmination of the pilgrimage route.