Most paellas served to tourists are fake. Here's how to recognize the real thing. THE ORIGINAL FROM VALENCIA Paella Valenciana = bomba rice, olive oil, tomato, chicken, rabbit, green beans (ferradura), white beans (garrofó), sweet peppers, saffron, rosemary. NOTHING MORE. No seafood, no chorizo, no peas. WHERE TO EAT AUTHENTIC Valencia: La Pepica (where Hemingway ate), Casa Roberto, Llevant (on Malvarrosa beach). Albufera (a lagoon 10 km south of Valencia) — the villages of Pinedo, Saler, El Palmar. This is where paella was born in the 18th century. SOCARRAT The most important element — the charred, crispy crust of rice at the bottom of the pan. This is created by leaving the pan on the heat for an additional 2-3 minutes after the liquid has absorbed. Scrape with a spoon. VARIANTS OK • Arroz a banda — rice cooked in fish broth, with fish and shrimp separately. A classic from the Costa Blanca. • Fideuà — the same but with pasta instead of rice, an original from Gandía. • Arroz negro — rice in squid ink, a black dish. SPAINIES DON'T DO THIS • Paella mixta (meat + seafood) — touristy • Paella made with frozen shellfish • Paella on Sunday evening (Spaniards only eat fresh ones at noon)