Most paella served to tourists is a fake. Here's how to spot the real thing. VALENCIAN ORIGINAL Paella valenciana = bomba rice, olive oil, tomato, chicken, rabbit, green beans (ferradura), white beans (garrofó), sweet paprika, saffron, rosemary. NOTHING ELSE. No seafood, no chorizo, no peas. WHERE TO EAT AUTHENTIC Valencia: La Pepica (where Hemingway ate), Casa Roberto, Llevant (Malvarrosa beach). Albufera (lagoon 10 km south of Valencia) — villages Pinedo, Saler, El Palmar. Paella was born here in the 18th century. SOCARRAT The most important element — charred, crispy rice crust at the pan's bottom. Forms when the pan stays on fire 2-3 extra min after liquid absorbed. You scrape it with a spoon. OK VARIANTS • Arroz a banda — rice cooked in fish broth, fish/prawns served separately. Costa Blanca classic. • Fideuà — same but pasta instead of rice, original from Gandía. • Arroz negro — rice in squid ink, black dish. SPANIARDS DON'T • Paella mixta (meat + seafood) — tourist fake • Paella from frozen shellfish • Paella Sunday evening (Spaniards eat only at noon, fresh)