Flamenco (UNESCO 2010) isn't a dance for tourists—it's an art with soul. Most shows for tourists are imitations. ELEMENTS • Cante — singing (the most important thing, not the dancing!) • Toque — playing the guitar • Baile — dancing • Jaleo — audience shouts ("Ole!", "Vamos!") • Palmas — clapping PALOS (STYLE) Cante Jondo — deep, sad: soleá, siguiriya, martinete Cante Chico — light, joyful: alegrías, bulerías, fandangos Know your palos so you don't get fooled—tourist shows are often bulerías (easy, quick). WHERE TO SEE AUTHENTIC SEVILLE (Triana — the cradle of flamenco) • Casa de la Memoria (Calle Cuna) — the most authentic, intimate setting for 50 people, one artist per evening • Casa del Flamenco — Plaza San Buenaventura • Peña Flamenca Torres Macarena — but only if they let you in (peña = association, for members) JEREZ DE LA FRONTERA — THE CAPITAL OF FLAMENCO Festival Jerez (February) — the most important flamenco festival in the world • Tabanco El Pasaje — flamenco + sherry • Centro Andaluz de Flamenco (museum) GRANADA — SACROMONTE Flamenco zambra — gypsy version in caves (cuevas) • Los Tarantos' Cuevas • La Rocío's Cuevas • Venta El Gallo Atmosphere: a smokestack cave, a guitarist playing to the wall, a dancer improvising. No two shows are alike. MADRID — LARGE AND COMMERCIAL TABLAOS • Corral de la Morería (the most famous) — stars + high-ticket (€50-100) • Tablao Las Carboneras • Café Berlin WHEN The best shows are 10:00-11:00 PM (after dinner). Tourist shows are 7:00-9:00 PM. DUENDE The magic of the moment when the artist and the audience fall into a trance. He won't perform at every show. Federico García Lorca wrote about duende—"you have to have wounds in your body to awaken them." Once you see him, you'll understand the difference between real flamenco and tourist flamenco.